Where to eat, drink and explore in Athens, from ancient landmarks to modern tavernas

Athens, a city steeped in history, pulses with a dynamic modern energy, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for visitors. While grappling with the strains of overtourism, the Greek capital is emerging from its recent financial crisis with renewed vigor, fueled by locals and international residents alike. This resurgence is evident in its world-class museums, experimental culinary scene, bustling bars, and the music that fills its public squares and leafy neighborhoods, making the ancient metropolis feel vibrantly alive.

For a taste of contemporary Greek cuisine with a twist, the restaurant LS&Sia in the Psyrri neighborhood offers a unique take on the traditional taverna. Hidden behind a local church, this establishment serves dishes like paper-thin tuna carpaccio drizzled in Greek olive oil and surprising combinations such as raw langoustines with bone marrow. The restaurant's ambiance balances industrial steel tables and an open-concept kitchen with a charming in-house candle counter, offering natural beeswax tapers reminiscent of those found in the city's churches.

Exploring Athens' ancient past is essential, with the Agora serving as the city's historical civic center. This sprawling archaeological site, once the heart of ancient Athens, includes the remarkably preserved Doric Temple of Hephaestus. Adjacent to it lies the Roman Agora. These sites are located in Monastiraki, a neighborhood now known for its maze-like streets and antique shops. The Abyssinia Square flea market provides a vast array of goods, encouraging bargaining, while the Martinos gallery offers a more curated selection of fine art and antiques.

Strolling west from the agoras leads to Anafiotika, a charming area of narrow pathways and whitewashed houses, and down to Plaka, an area inhabited for over 3,000 years. This historic district includes Tripodon Street, named for its ancient tripod structures. The city's blend of ancient landmarks, contemporary culture, and distinct neighborhoods offers a multifaceted travel experience.