Why Hermes wants to be taken seriously as a watchmaker

Hermes is actively working to elevate its standing as a serious watchmaker, especially among sophisticated collectors in Asia. While the brand has long been admired for its design, it has historically not been placed in the same tier as established luxury watch houses. This perception is now undergoing a subtle but significant shift.

At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Hermes showcased its "Mysterious Mechanisms" collection. This line includes three new models that explore innovative ways to display the watch movement while maintaining aesthetic appeal. The Hermes H08 Squelette highlights the new H1978 S automatic calibre, the Slim d’Hermes Squelette Lune features an openworked dial with the H1953 calibre and a dual-hemisphere moon-phase display, and the Arceau Samarcande conceals a minute repeater within a crystal dial shaped like a horse's head.

These intricate timepieces are powered by calibres developed by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a key Swiss movement specialist. Hermes has deepened its relationship with Vaucher, increasing its stake from 25% to 40%. This move underscores the French maison's dedication to watchmaking, a field it entered in 1978. The brand is also expanding its manufacturing facilities in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, where it produces watch cases and dials.

Vaucher's influence extends beyond Hermes, as it supplies movements to other respected brands like Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. It also collaborated on TAG Heuer's high-frequency Calibre TH80-00. Hermes CEO Laurent Dordet discussed the brand's strategy for gaining credibility in fine watchmaking and navigating market uncertainties in Asia and globally.

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We do our best by balancing the weight of the markets and not relying too heavily on a single