Designer Lenny Agustin on Modernizing Kebayas While Preserving Tradition

For National Kebaya Day, Indonesian fashion designer and historian Lenny Agustin shared her views on contemporary kebaya designs. She noted the trend towards modernizing the traditional garment with experimental silhouettes, colors, and details, including crop tops, sporty accents, and updated materials.

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If it is modified, don't let the original form be lost. The changes should only be about 30 percent so people can still recognize that it is a kebaya.

However, Agustin emphasized that modernization should not erase the kebaya's core identity. She recommends limiting modifications to about 30% to ensure the garment remains recognizable as a kebaya. Changes can be made through color choices, embroidery, textures, or adding contemporary ornaments, but the basic form and distinctive features should be preserved.

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Kebaya encim initially used a lot of lace and was identified with white colors. I kept the lace material, but I changed the flowers to more modern applications so the appearance is not too traditional.

Agustin cited her own designs as examples. Inspired by the Peranakan Chinese community's encim kebaya, known for lace and white colors, she kept the lace material but updated the floral patterns. She also experimented with shorter, cropped proportions and added sporty ribbon details, creating a novel element while maintaining the kebaya's essence.

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I once added details like sporty-style ribbons. Although there are modern touches, people can still see that this is a kebaya.

She believes these innovations demonstrate the kebaya's adaptability and continued relevance. Agustin stressed the importance of understanding each kebaya's history to ensure modifications respect its cultural roots. "Kebaya can follow the times, but its identity must not be lost," she stated. "As long as the basic form is still recognizable and the value of the kebaya remains, innovation actually makes the kebaya more relevant for the current generation."

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Kebaya can follow the times, but its identity must not be lost. As long as the basic form is still recognizable and the value of the kebaya remains, innovation actually makes the kebaya more relevant for the current generation.