‘God Save Messi’: Buenos Aires in World Cup Fever and State of Exception

Buenos Aires was gripped by an "state of exception" on Wednesday, a day seemingly destined for Argentina's annals. As dawn broke, the sky remained dim under thick clouds, mirroring a slow-moving morning as many skipped work or university for the 4 p.m. World Cup semifinal kickoff against England.

National coach Lionel Scaloni insisted it was "just a football match" in press conferences since the victory over Switzerland. However, the atmosphere in Buenos Aires made it clear everyone at home saw it differently. This became evident as English players' faces appeared on a large screen in the Pizzeria La Americana, where chants of "hijos de puta" (sons of bitches) drowned out any commentary.

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just a football match

These insults were directed at the English players, who were seen as trying to prevent Lionel Messi and his team from defending their World Cup title. The sentiment extended to a wish for divine protection for the "king" who still claims sovereignty over the Malvinas, the storm-lashed islands off the coast of Patagonia. Bookmakers in London had, incredibly, rated England higher than the reigning champions before kickoff.

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Every day I love you more, I am Argentinian and this feeling, I cannot stop it

La Americana, unlike tourist traps on Avenida Corrientes, offered a more down-to-earth experience, with pizza slices and draft beer served even to standing patrons. The pizzeria was packed before the semifinal, filled with families, young couples, groups of friends, and various "street folk."

As the teams entered the field, vuvuzelas blared, and the chant "Olé, olé, olé, ola!" erupted. The accompanying lyrics, "Every day I love you more, I am Argentinian and this feeling, I cannot stop it," filled the air. The crowd belted out the final line of their anthem: "And we vow to die gloriously."

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And we vow to die gloriously