Raised differently, united by food: Couple makes Singapore food heritage part of everyday life

At Sendok Rakyat's nasi ulam workshops, participants gather around a mix of spices and herbs, often including kemangi (sliced lemon basil), Thai basil, mint, coriander, kaffir lime leaf, daun kaduk (wild betel leaf) and bunga kantan (torch ginger flower). They chop ingredients such as cucumbers and onions, mix the herbs and take in the bright assortment of colors and aromatic scents from the herb mix.

But the workshop does not stop at making the traditional Southeast Asian herbal rice dish, which combines cooked rice with a medley of finely sliced fresh herbs and vegetables. Participants also learn the stories behind the ingredients and why they are used in the dish. As they chop and mix in small, intimate circles, they are encouraged to share their own experiences: What do these ingredients mean to them? Have they ever had the chance to touch or taste these herbs? Is the scent familiar? Have they tried cooking similar dishes at home? Or are these the kinds of dishes their mothers or grandmothers once prepared?

These are the kinds of questions that the married couple behind Sendok Rakyat – Anugerah Murni Sabta, 28, and Aqid Aiman Azmi, 33 – weave into their programs. Sendok Rakyat, which translates to “the people’s ladle,” is a platform that uses food as a way for people to understand their heritage and communities better. It runs food programs at various community spaces and collaborates with organizations such as Singapore HeritageFest, the National Heritage Board and ArtsWok. While it has a particular focus on Malay food, these activities also explore how different food traditions have intertwined in Singapore over time, from laksa and mee soto to mee goreng and rojak.

"Food is a way into conversations about identity, belonging and what that means in Singapore today," Aqid said. “It's so important, emotional and meaningful – and we want to share that value with others, too." When Aqid and Anugerah met and started dating in 2022, they bonded instantly over their interest in local food. They would exchange their food experiences, compare how different stalls prepared their favorite dishes and debate whether a particular dish was underrated or deserved more attention. That interest eventually became a food diary on Instagram, called Sendok Rakyat, where they documented their experiences and attempts to cook new dishes. What began as a simple way of sharing their interest in food and cooking gradually grew into something broader. The couple began thinking not only about what was on the plate but also the people, histories and everyday practices surrounding it. Through the comments they received online, they also managed to learn about different cooking styles and techniques, lesser-known stories behind the names of dishes, and where they can get the best ingredients at affordable prices around the country.

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Food is a way into conversations about identity, belonging and what that means in Singapore today. It's so important, emotional and meaningful – and we want to share that value with others, too.