Vegan Hakka Cuisine Earns Michelin Nod for Taiwanese Restaurant 'Monsoon Season'

The restaurant "Monsoon Season" in Zhubei, Taiwan, is challenging traditional perceptions of Hakka cuisine by offering an entirely plant-based menu. Chefs Ted Liao and Phil Han are dedicated to innovating Hakka dishes, moving away from the typically perceived "oily, salty, and fragrant" profile. Their approach uses innovative pairings and culinary techniques to highlight the natural flavors of traditional ingredients, offering a healthier alternative that has earned them a third consecutive Michelin Bib Gourmand recommendation.

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Hakka cuisine must be 'oily, salty, and fragrant'?

Ted, with nearly 30 years in the culinary industry, and Phil, who has partial Hakka heritage, aim to integrate Hakka cuisine into daily dining habits without health concerns. They believe that by skillfully applying traditional Hakka methods such as pickling, brewing, fermentation, and preservation, they can create dishes that are low in oil, salt, and sugar. The restaurant's journey began in Taipei, and after reflecting on the relationship between food and health during the COVID-19 pandemic, they transitioned to a vegan Hakka concept. Despite an initial drop in customers, their commitment led to rapid recognition, securing a Bib Gourmand in their second month of operation and maintaining it for three years.

Monsoon Season's menu is a creative expression of the Hakka region's seasonal changes, drawing inspiration from childhood memories and local ingredients. They utilize mountain herbs like 'yue tao hua' (a type of orchid) for non-alcoholic beverages, capturing the essence of spring. Desserts often feature local produce, such as Hsinchu persimmons combined with marigolds, creating a blend of fruitiness and floral notes that evoke a sense of place and personal history. Traditional Hakka dishes are reimagined: 'Basil Taro Soup' is elevated with刺蔥 (a type of prickly ash) and a creamy texture, while 'Tangyuan de Ziyoushi' (Free Style Tangyuan) uses pumpkin and glutinous rice to mimic the appearance of 'suan pan zi' (abacus beads), a Malaysian Hakka snack, served with mushroom toppings.

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Hakka people are good at pickling, brewing, fermentation, and preservation. If these techniques are used well, the vegetarian dishes can be low in oil, salt, and sugar.

Even classic dishes like Hakka stuffed buns are reinvented. The 'Hakka Cai Bao' features a filling of pickled plums and potatoes, which develop a surprisingly meat-like aroma after long simmering, encased in cabbage. To mimic the appearance of black pepper, they use finely ground long bean and dried tofu. The chefs meticulously explain each dish, adding an element of elegance and ritual to the dining experience, transforming the perception of Hakka food from a simple, hearty meal to a refined culinary journey.

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The biggest ambition of the two is to make Hakka cuisine able to occupy everyone's dining table every day, and to be enjoyed healthily and without burden. In this way, Hakka cuisine and related cultures will be naturally preserved and passed down.