Writer Martín Caparrós downplays international acclaim for Peruvian cuisine: “Peru is just cold fish”

Martín Caparrós sparked controversy by contrasting Mexico’s culinary diversity with Peru’s international reputation as one of Latin America’s leading food destinations.

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It is very curious how within the continent Peru managed to position itself as the place of good food, when, well, Mexico is a gastronomic world and Peru is just cold fish.

The Argentine writer and journalist made the comments during an interview about his book “Ñamérica,” hunger and the different social realities of Latin America. He praised Mexico as “one of the great cuisines of the world,” alongside countries such as China and India.

Caparrós said Mexico offers broad variety in products, flavors and traditions, even within a single city. He pointed to Mexico City, where neighborhoods, street stalls and restaurants can offer very different culinary experiences. He said Mexican cuisine allows people to encounter “all the flavors, aromas and idiosyncrasies” of a tradition stretching from its origins to the present.

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Mexico has one of the great cuisines in the world, along with, I don’t know, China, India and perhaps some small part of the West.

He also criticized the way Mexican food is presented abroad, arguing that a North American simplification often reduces it to certain familiar dishes and hides much of its diversity. “That took the place of Mexican cuisine and prevents, or prevents many people, from seeing what is really there,” he said.

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If you want variety and a cuisine that comes from its origins to the present, where you can experience all the flavors, aromas and idiosyncrasies, for me Mexico is one of the best.

His sharpest comment concerned Peru. Caparrós called it curious that Peru had positioned itself within the continent as the place of good food, then added, “Mexico is a gastronomic world and Peru is just cold fish.” The article characterizes that remark as his personal assessment, rather than an objective description of Peru’s varied regional traditions, ingredients and preparations.

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That took the place of Mexican cuisine and prevents, or prevents many people, from seeing what is really there.