Restaurant Critic Explains Star-Rating System, Notes Increased Stringency

Helsingin Sanomat features insights from Jouni K. Kemppainen, a seasoned restaurant critic, who elucidates the methodology behind assigning stars in restaurant reviews. Kemppainen, who has been writing reviews for a considerable period, shares his perspective on the current state of culinary criticism, noting that the awarding of stars has become more rigorous. He expresses satisfaction with this trend, viewing it as a positive evolution in the field.

Kemppainen recounts his initial foray into restaurant criticism approximately 15 years ago with a review of the renowned restaurant G. W. Sundmans. In that review, he awarded four stars, praising the establishment's skill and techniques. However, he distinctly remembers a critical observation: the restaurant, despite its accolades, evoked the feeling of a generic Michelin-starred establishment, one that could be found anywhere in the world. This early experience seems to have shaped his approach to reviewing, emphasizing the importance of distinctiveness and character beyond technical execution.

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Kirjoitin ensimmäisen ravintola‑arvioni noin 15 vuotta sitten. Paikka oli maineikas, ravintola G. W. Sundmans. Annoin sille neljä tähteä.

Through this piece, Helsingin Sanomat highlights the nuanced nature of restaurant criticism and the evolving standards within the industry. Kemppainen's reflections suggest a move away from mere technical proficiency towards a greater appreciation for unique culinary experiences and a restaurant's individual identity. The article implicitly argues that while skill is important, a truly memorable dining experience transcends generic perfection, a sentiment that likely guides Kemppainen's current, more discerning approach to star ratings.

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Kehuin taitoa ja tekniikoita, mutta moitepuoleta muistan erityisesti yhden huomion: ravintola muistutti geneeristä Michelin-tähtipaikkaa, sellaista, joka voisi sijaita missä päin maailmaa tahansa.